Who's the Baketard?

Why Baketard? Love to cook, hate to bake. Despite having gone to cooking school and working in some top kitchens, I never learned the baking side of things. I'm building my baking and photography skills, while sharing recipes that rock my world in the mean time.

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Tuesday
Mar062012

Roasted Grape Risotto with Hazelnuts and La Tur Cheese

To say I love Holly Smith and the food she serves at Café Juanita in Kirkland would be a gross understatement. I met Holly a few years ago when a friend “bought” her at the Seattle Men’s Chorus Auction, and invited us to his home to share a multi-course, wine-paired dinner she hosted with some of her staff from the restaurant. It didn't hurt that she was totally down with our snarky banter and was willing to go with the bitchy flow in the room! The food completely blew my mind—so much that for birthdays and celebrations, when David asks, “Where would you like to go” the answer is an unwavering, “Café Juanita”. (If you go, eat her signature dish…..the rabbit will completely change your life. When in doubt, Eat The Bunny Eat The Bunny Eat The Bunny. She also makes a foie dish that will make you weep with joy).

Because I am her biggest stalker fan, I often search the net for her recipes I can try at home. I ran across this risotto recipe and made it this weekend. It Blew. Our. Minds. The sweetness of the grapes and the tangy cheese are incredible together. Don’t be daunted by trying to procure the cheese.  In Seattle, you can get it at PFI for about 10 bucks. Otherwise, if you have a good cheesemonger you should be able to hunt it down.

David proclaimed this to be the best risotto I’ve ever made at home, and I have to agree.

What’s your favorite risotto recipe?

Roasted Grape Risotto with Hazelnuts and La Tur Cheese

Recipe from Holly Smith, Chef/Owner of Cafe Juanita

Serves 6

Ingredients

Roasted Grapes:

•1 bag seedless red Grapes from California

•>1/4 cup fennel seed

•1/2 teaspoon chile flakes

•1 tablespoon thyme

•1 teaspoon salt

•1/4 cup olive oil

Directions

Mix all ingredients together. Roast at 400 degrees F until soft and caramelized golden. Take out and leave at room temperature.

Roasted Hazelnuts:

•1 cup hazelnuts roughly chopped

In a 350 degrees F degree oven, roast hazelnuts until lightly browned, for approximately 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool. Reserve for later.

Risotto:

•2 1/2 cups Carnaroli rice (Arborio is acceptable substitution)

•7 to 8 cups chicken stock (vegetable stock may be used as well)

•2 medium yellow onions, finely diced

•1 pound unsalted Plugra butter at room temperature

•8 shallots finely minced

•1/2 cup verjus

•1 1/2 wheels of La Tur Cheese

•1 cup roasted hazelnuts (recipe above)

•Roasted grapes (recipe above)

Melt 4 ounces of butter in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add diced onions and shallots and cook over medium to high heat, stirring until uniformly caramelized. While the onions are cooking, bring the stock up to a simmer in a separate pot. It is always best to add hot stock to your risotto. Add the rice to the onions and stir. Coat all kernels well. Add the verjus and stir. Add 4 cups of hot stock and stir well. Turn the heat down to medium. When the rice has absorbed most of stock, begin adding 1/2 cup more at a time. Stir every minute or two until the stock is absorbed. Continue until about 7 cups total have been added to the rice. Taste and add more stock if not cooked through. When rice is just done and still very moist, turn off the heat and let rest for 2 minutes off the burner.

Divide the remaining butter into three portions. Add one portion at a time into the risotto, beating with a wooden spoon until well incorporated. Add one-half wheel of the La Tur cheese and stir vigorously. Fold in the roasted grapes and stir gently. With the remaining wheel of the La Tur, divide into 6 sections and roll in the reserved roasted hazelnuts. Divide and plate the grape risotto onto six plates. Garnish each with hazelnut La Tur cheese.

Wednesday
Feb292012

Butterscotch Budino with Caramel Sauce and Rosemary–Pine Nut Cookies

This is one of those recipes that makes enough to serve a crowd (10 servings) but you will really want to sit in a dark corner in front of the TV with a huge spoon and eat it all yourself. I’ve made this quite a few times since buying this book, and it’s always a crowd-pleaser.  The crème fraiche / whipped cream mixture adds some nice tang to combat the sweetness of the Budino, and the creme fraiche also stabilizes the cream.

My surprise in this was in the making of the butterscotch. I know it should be self-evident from the name, but this is the first time I did a butterscotch recipe containing butter and scotch. I know, I know--I'm clearly not going to be a Rhodes Scholar any time soon.

I did not make the cookies this recipe called for because…well….that would be baking.

Enjoy!

(Thanks to Matt Wright for the photo help with this one. This is one of the recipes we photographed at his house, as he patiently tried to teach the Baketard to be less of a Photogratard.)

Butterscotch Budino with Caramel Sauce and Rosemary–Pine Nut Cookies

Recipe from Nancy Silverton’s book, Mozza

“A budino is really just a pudding. But this budino, with its deep buttery-caramel flavor and thick, velvety texture is enough to make an Italian chef’s eyes light up. Imagine what it will do for your guests!” –Nancy Silverton

Yield:10 servings

Ingredients:

Butterscotch Budino:

 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

 1/2 cup water

 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

 3 cups heavy cream

 1 1/2 cups milk

 1 egg

 3 egg yolks

 5 tablespoons cornstarch

 5 tablespoons butter

 1 1/2 tablespoons dark rum or scotch

Rosemary–Pine Nut Cookies:

 3 tablespoons heavy cream

 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons honey

 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons all-purpose flour, sifted

 1/4 vanilla bean, scraped

 1 tablespoon plus 1/2 cup butter, divided

 1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

 2 sprigs of rosemary

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons pastry flour

 1/4 cup cornmeal or polenta

Caramel Sauce:

 1/2 cup heavy cream

 1/8 vanilla bean, scraped

 2 tablespoons butter

 1/2 cup sugar

 2 tablespoons corn syrup

 2 tablespoons water

 

1/4 cup whipping cream

 3/4 cup crème fraîche

 1 1/4 teaspoons fleur de sel

Method:

To prepare the budino, combine the brown sugar, water, and salt in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Cook to a smoking, dark caramel, about 10 to 12 minutes. (The sugar will smell caramelized and nutty and turn a deep brown.) Immediately whisk the cream and milk into the caramel to stop the cooking. The mixture will steam and the caramel will seize, but will become smooth again as you whisk. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce the heat to medium.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg, egg yolks, and cornstarch. Temper the hot caramel cream into the egg mixture by adding a cup of caramel at a time, whisking constantly. When half the caramel is incorporated, pour the egg mixture back into the remaining caramel, and boil while whisking constantly until the custard is very thick, about 2 minutes. Remove the custard from the heat and whisk in the butter and rum. Strain the custard through a fine mesh strainer to remove any lumps and divide among ten 6-ounce ramekins. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for several hours, or up to 3 days.

To prepare the rosemary–pine nut cookies, place the cream, honey, sugar, vanilla bean seeds, and 1 tablespoon butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over high heat, stirring only once to ensure even cooking, until the mixture reaches 230º F on a candy thermometer. Take off the heat and whisk in the all-purpose flour. Pour the mixture into a bowl and fold in the pine nuts and 1 of the rosemary sprigs. Let the mixture stand for 15 minutes. Remove and discard the rosemary sprig. (This mixture can be made in advance, and stored in the refrigerator for up to a week. Bring it to room temperature before rolling out the cookies.)

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the remaining 1/2 cup butter and the powdered sugar until it is creamy and smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the vanilla extract and salt and mix until combined. Add the flour and polenta and mix until combined. The dough will be soft. Shape the dough into a disk and wrap the disk in plastic. Chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350º F. On a well-floured surface, roll out the cookie dough to 1/8-inch thick. Cut out circles of dough using a 1 1/4–inch round cutter. Place the circles of dough on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Work the pine nut mixture between your fingers, creating a thin disk about the size of a dime. Place the circle on a cut-out cookie and garnish with fresh rosemary sprigs, about three leaves for each cookie. Once all of the cookies are finished and garnished, bake them for about 15 minutes until they are golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.

To prepare the caramel sauce, heat the cream and vanilla in a medium saucepan over medium heat until simmering. Add the butter, turn off the heat, and set aside. In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, and water. Cook over medium-high heat, swirling the pan just slightly to gauge the caramelization, until the sugar becomes a medium amber color, about 10 minutes. Remove the caramel from heat and carefully whisk the cream mixture into the caramel. Be very careful—the caramel will steam and bubble. Whisk to combine. Place the pan in a large bowl of ice water to cool.

To serve, whip the whipping cream in a chilled medium bowl until it begins to thicken. Add the crème fraiche and beat until thick and fluffy. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the warm caramel sauce onto each budino, sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon of fleur de sel, and add a dollop of whipped cream. Serve with a few cookies on the side

Saturday
Feb252012

Weekend Comfort - Souffled Apple Pancakes with Cinnamon Maple Syrup

 

Another wet weekend in Seattle. Is it spring yet? Is it spring yet? Days like this scream "COMFORT", and this recipe is one of my go-tos for days like this. I found this in Rob Feenie's book, Feenies and made it for a snowy New Year's weekend away with friends. It was a big hit.

No big changes to this one. Know that when these come from the oven they will be lava-hot inside, so you'll need to allow for some resting time. Serve with a mountainous pile of bacon (as we obviously did. This is what you do when it's cold: You eat pork!)

Souffled Apple Pancakes with Cinnamon Maple Syrup

 From Feenie’s, by Rob Feenie

Maple Syrup

1 quart Maple Syrup

3 sticks cinnamon

6 whole star anise

Apples

1/3 cup butter

2/3 cup brown sugar

7 granny smith apples, peeled, cored, ¾ inch dice

Pancakes

10 large eggs

5 Tbsp sugar

1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour

2 ½ cups milk

1 ½ tsp vanilla extract

¾ tsp salt

½ tsp ground cinnamon

Icing sugar, for garnish

Instructions:

Maple Syrup: Place all the ingredients in a saucepan on high heat and bring just to a boil. Remove from the stove and allow to cool. Store syrup, with the spices in it, in a large jar in the refrigerator. Will keep for 4 months.

Apples: Melt butter in large frying pan on medium heat. Add brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Cook for 3 minutes until bubbly. Add apples and cook for about 8 minutes, or until softened. Remove from the heat.

Pancakes: Mix together eggs and sugar in a large bowl. Add flour, milk, vanilla, salt and cinnamon, then whisk well. In small batches, process in a blender until frothy. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.

To assemble: Preheat the oven to 425 Farenheit. Divide apples into four 8-inch (or six 6-inch) ungreased casserole dishes. Ladle the pancake batter into the casseroles (1 ½ cups for each 8-inch dish or 1-cup for each 6-inch dish). Bake in the oven for 7 minutes. Rotate the dishes 180 degrees, then bake for another 7 minutes, until golden brown and puffed.

To serve: Place each casserole on a plate. Garnish each serving with a dusting of icing (powdered) sugar. Serve with a jug of cinnamon maple syrup on the side.

Sunday
Jan292012

Udang Nestum (Cereal Prawns)

This week was one of those crazy work weeks where there was no time to breathe, the days were nonstop meetings, and by the end of the week I was absolutely fried. Staying focused for "strategic planning" meetings without cutting someone or hugging yourself and rocking back and forth in your chair, moaning “Bored…bored…bored…boredboredboredbored” isn’t easy! I know, I know--Those of you who have jobs outside the corporate world would drown in the corporatespeak overload. As much as you think you won't go there, you do! I catch myself spewing out words like "leverage", "ROI" and "value proposition" way too often. And yes, I hate myself for it every time those words tumble from my mouth. 

My friend Becky (I’ve told you about her amazing food before. Did you go get her cookbook yet?) and I had planned to have brunch together Saturday morning, because it had been a while since we’d hung out and caught up. Rather than going out somewhere we decided to make food for each other, drawing from our respective “death meal” lists.

If you’re someone who is focused on food and cooking, and can think of no better way to spend a Saturday than sitting on the floor with cookbooks scattered around you, interrupting one another when you find something you Want. To. Make. Now, then you probably have an idea of what I’m saying.  We all have our mental list of “this would be one if the food items I want included in my last meal on this earth.” Naturally, those lists are nuanced, depending on the person. Mine involves a naked Ryan Reynolds, assorted farm animals and a jar of peanut butter.

But I digress…

Becky and I have our own lists of favorites, and when we spend time together we inevitably get to, “Ohmygod I have to make _____________ for you!” Saturday, we picked a couple of the dishes we knew the other had never tried and gave it a go. Becky made the most amazing lamb and mint meatballs with a creamy tomato and fenugreek sauce. They were melt in your mouth gorgeous and reminded me of butter chicken, even though they didn’t have a ton of dairy in the sauce. If you ask her nicely, she may even give you her recipe.

For my contribution, I made a street food dish I tried during my last business trip to Singapore, called Udang Nestum, or Cereal Prawns. Fried prawns, mixed in a caramelized, buttery, chile-blasted, curry leaf spiked sauce with bits of Nestum Cereal. Nestum is a Nestle product sold in Southeast Asia, and is similar to cream of wheat. It has a vanilla-y, malted aroma to it. It sounds a bit strange but it will knock your socks off. It’s hard to find in the US (I’ve relied on friends traveling to and from Singapore on business to procure it), but I finally managed to find a link here and figured since the ingredients are obtainable, I’d share the recipe with you. For frying the shrimp, you can sub in other flours for the cornstarch. I prefer cornstarch because I think it adds more crunch to fried foods on its own than it does mixed with other flours.

Oh, I realize indian lamb meatballs and Indonesian cereal prawns aren’t the most traditional breakfast food, but we accounted for that too. Just make a pot of coffee, fry an egg and put it over your cereal prawns (I guarantee you will be a convert forever), and add some gossip. It’s brunch!

Thanks, Becky, for taking photos while we cooked! Thanks also for destroying my New Years diet.

Cereal Prawns

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 lb. prawns (Note from Marc: Becky schooled me on this one: Try to find prawns from the US, wild if possible, to avoid all of the antibiotics and crap pumped into foreign and farm-raised shrimp)

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 tsp white pepper

1 egg, lightly whisked

1 cup corn starch

2 tbsp butter

2 salted duck egg yolks 
(Note from Marc: You can buy salted duck eggs at any Asian market)

3 red thai chilies, sliced thinly, diagonally (Note from Marc: If you don’t love the heat, you can substitute milder Fresno chiles)

50 g curry leaves

2 Tbsp granulated or palm sugar

50 g Nestum cereal original

Peanut oil (for frying shrimp)

Directions: 

  1. Peel and devein shrimp, leaving the tail intact.
  2. Mix salt and pepper into the shrimp and let it marinate 30 minutes.
  3. Heat cooking oil in a wok. Dip prawns in egg and dust with cornstarch.
Deep-fry prawns in hot oil for 3-4 minutes till golden.
Drain on paper towel and set aside for later use.
  4. Melt butter in a wok. Add mashed salted yolks into hot butter. Stir-fry for a couple of seconds.
  5. Add curry leaves, sliced chilies, sugar and Nestum cereal.
Quickly stir-fry for 2 minutes, till cereal changes color, getting somewhat light and crunchy.
Toss in fried shrimp. Mix well and remove from heat.
Friday
Jan202012

Smoked Baby Chicken with Tomato and Eggplant Sambal

Another day of snowbound togetherness.  Another day TRAPPED IN THIS HOUSE TOGETHER.  What do you do with a week of enforced intimacy?  You try not to kill each other during the day and then cook a kick ass dinner, blow off your New Years resolution diet, drink a bottle of wine and then realize, “Hey, I’m not driving anywhere” and suck down another!  Yeah, that was our Thursday.

Earlier this month, I received an email from a very nice woman at Tealeaves.com who had seen the feature in 425 Magazine in the fall, featuring local food bloggers/twitter loudmouths like me. She asked if I would try their teas and let them know what I thought. I was flattered, and surprised to get a huge assortment in the mail. With our stupid New Years diets, I’ve been drinking a lot of tea instead of wine (WTF, right?), and the assortment she sent has been delicious. I'm also a geek for cool packaging, and loved how these arrived. There is a sealed bag inside a sealed tea compartment inside a cool tea tin. It's like a Russian Doll of tealeaves. My favorite tea has always been (and remains) Jasmine, so I used that to smoke the chicken in this recipe.

This recipe is a goldmine. It has the perfect marriage of sweet and spicy, delicious textural combinations between the creamy eggplant and tomato sambal, the seared chicken, and the crunchy fried sambal on top. Like the other Ezard recipes I’ve blogged about, this was delicious and so completely the type of food I like to cook.

Don’t be put off by the steps—it sounds more involved than it really is. It didn’t take more than an hour to throw this all together. And besides, it’s a winter wonderland out there. What ELSE do you have to do today?

Notes on the recipe: I couldn’t find Green Ginger Wine anywhere, and ended up subbing in a lychee rice wine I picked up the Asian market. It was quite nice. Also, I smoked this with Applewood chips. The type called for in this recipe are unique (I think) to Australia. Finally,…baby chickens? While I love the horrific descriptor, this is not something easy to procure here, so we used chicken thighs. Other than this, I promise I didn’t dumb down this recipe. It’s too damned good to modify.

Smoked Baby Chicken with Tomato and Eggplant Sambal

Adapted from the cookbook Gingerboy, by Teage Ezard

SMOKED BABY CHICKEN

85 ml light soy sauce

15g (approximately 3cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

3 tablespoons green ginger wine

2 tablespoons shaoxing rice wine

2 x 500g baby chickens, butterflied (or 8 boneless chicken thighs, as we did)

100g woodchips (mankua is the best but any from your local barbecue store will work), soaked in water for 20 minutes, then drained

2 tablespoons jasmine tea leaves

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

TOMATO AND EGGPLANT SAMBAL

2 eggplants, peeled and sliced lengthways into 12 wedges

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon sea salt

4 roma tomatoes, cut in half lengthways

250 ml(1 cup) pat chun (Chinese sweetened vinegar)

2 red shallots, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 red bird’s eye (thai) chile, thinly sliced

2 tablespoopns shaoxing rice wine

2 tablespoons kecap manis

1 large handful of coriander (cilantro) leaves

1 cup crispy fried sambal (recipe below)

CRISPY FRIED SAMBAL

1 tablespoon belacan shrimp paste, roasted

750ml (3 cups) vegetable oil

6 red shallots, thinly sliced

3 long red chiles, thinly sliced on the diagonal

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

30g (approximately 6cm) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

METHOD

Smoked baby chicken

  1. Combine the soy sauce, ginger, green ginger wine and shaoxing rice wine in a large container, add the chickens, skin side down, and rub the marinade into the flesh. Cover and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours to marinate. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and leave for 10 minutes to come to room temperature.
  2. Place a perforated stainless steel disc insert in a steamer basket, then add the chicken and cover with the lid. (Note from Marc: I just used a regular chinese bamboo steamer for this) Line the base of a wok with foil, sprinkle in half of the soaked woodchips and place over medium heat.
  3. Stir the woodchips around until they start to smoke, then place the steamer on top. Cover and smoke for 30 seconds, then turn off the heat and leave for 4 minutes. Remove the steamer from the wok, turn the heat back on, stir the woodchips around, replace the steamer and repeat the smoking process.
  4. Remove the steamer from the wok and then remove the foil and the woodchips. Replace with a fresh sheet of foil and the remaining woodchips and repeat the smoking process. The last time you move the woodchips around, place the wok over medium heat and, once the woodchips start to smoke, sprinkle on the tealeaves. Place the steamer on top, cover and leave to smoke for 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave for 5 minutes.

Tomato and Eggplant Sambal

  1. Preheat the oven to 380 F.
  2. Spread the eggplant in a single layer on a baking tray, drizzle on the oil and season with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Roast for 25 minutes until golden brown and soft. Set aside to cool.
  3. Arrange the tomatoes, cut side up, in a single layer on a baking tray. Pour the pat chun over the top, season lightly with the remaining salt and cover with foil. Roast for 30 minutes until the tomatoes are cooked but still hold their shape. Leave the tomatoes to cool in the liquid. Once cool, the skin can be easily removed. Strain, reserving 80ml (1/3 cup) of the pat chun liquid.
  4. Heat a wok over medium heat, add the eggplant and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the shallots, garlic, chile and tomatoes and stir-fry for 1 minute. Pour in the shaoxing rice wine, cook for 20 seconds, then add the kecap manis and caramelize for a further 30 seconds. Stir in the reserved pat chun liquid, cook for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Crispy Fried Sambal

  1. Using your fingers, crumble the shrimp paste into a bowl and set aside (Note from Marc: to roast the belacan, just wrap a piece in foil and cook in a 350-375 degree oven until fragrant, about 10 minutes)
  2. Heat the oil in a wok to 350 F (you can test if the oil is the right temperature by dropping in a cube of bread; if the bread browns in 50 seconds, the oil is ready). Fry the shallots until golden brown, remove with a slotte spoon and drain on paper towel. Repeat with the chile, garlic and ginger.
  3. Add all fried ingredients to the bowl and gently mix with the shrimp paste.
  4. This sambal is best made fresh on the day.

TO SERVE

  1. Preheat the oven to 380 F (180 C.)
  2. Season the chicken lightly on the skin side. Place a non-stick frying pan over high heat, add the oil and chicken, skin side down, and cook for 1-2 minutes, then flip over, cover and cook for a further 4 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. Cut each chicken into quarters.
  3. Spoon some sambal into the center of two serving plates, top with the chicken and garnish with the coriander and crispy fried sambal.
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